Afterward, we went straight to the beach. It was raining and cold, but kids don't care. We walked to the water's edge (Aksel kept walking and was soaked from the knees down), hunted for seashells, and explained why barnacles are sharp.
We drove along the coast back to the rental, evaded a large Bernese Mountain Dog, tucked the kids in bed, ate several chocolate bars and watched a few hours of Belgium Netflix, which has surprisingly better and more options than Luxembourg Netflix.
We drove along the coast back to the rental, evaded a large Bernese Mountain Dog, tucked the kids in bed, ate several chocolate bars and watched a few hours of Belgium Netflix, which has surprisingly better and more options than Luxembourg Netflix.
Then Ben said, I love Apple TV, it may be the greatest invention ever.
Day 2: Bruges & Atlantikwall
First things first. We dropped Ben off at Mobistar so he could get a Belgium sim card. Lilly and I parked the car, put Ingrid in a backpack, put the boys in the stroller, filled the stroller with supplies and then went to meet up with Ben. We were only lost for 10 minutes. Then we found Ben. Thirty seconds later Mobistar called and said Ben left the store without paying for the sim card. Classic.
Fifteen minutes later we wandered past countless tea rooms, bakeries, shops and chocolate confisseries to Markt Square and the Belfry of Bruges. After determining waiting in line for several hours to climb 366 steps with three children wasn't in everyone's best interest, we walked around, took lots of pictures, bought chocolate, listened to street musicians, eagerly anticipated the passage of horse drawn carriages and found our way to Burg Square.
Another medieval square, we found ourselves in front of the Bishop's Palace, the Town Hall, the Old Civil Registry, the Holy Blood Basilica and a wedding.
We convinced our children to leave Burg square (and horses) with the promise of an exciting boat ride. Ben went in search of cash and took the boys pee while Lilly and I and Ingrid waited in line for a boat. Thirty five minutes later (read: eternity), we climbed aboard our boat and it was the highlight of our day. Everyone was really happy. Bruges is beautiful. The weather was perfect. Spring was in full force. And none of our children (read: Aksel) fell in the water.
We disembarked the boat and walked to Astrid Park (what a great name, if we have a fourth and its a girl, we will definitely name her Astrid), let the kids run wild and went in search of food. Ben and Lilly returned to the park with fresh bread, cheese, salami, grapes, nectarines, crepes, and waffles. Food in Europe is amazing.
Aksel and Ingrid were ready for naps, so Otto took a turn in the back pack while the two little ones slept in the stroller. We meandered to Rozenhoedkaai (one of the most photographed spots in Bruges), bought a scoop of gelato for Otto, listened to a cellist outside of Onthaalkerk Onze-Lieve-Vrouw (Church of our Lady), and viewed Michelango's Madonna and Child.
Knowing our kids were done sight-seeing for the day, we made our way back to the car.
Unfortunately, I left the lights on when parking the car six hours earlier and as a result, the car battery was dead. Ben went to look for an employee of the parking garage. I asked the next man who walked by if he had jumper cables. He did (really rare in Europe).
Twenty minutes later, we were back in business and on our way to the beach enjoying the lingering pungent smell of our good samaritan. People either smell amazing or terrible here. There's no middle ground.
We headed back to Ostend and Raversyde, the Atlantic Wall Open Air Museum.
The German Atlantikwall, was one of the last major defense lines of this century. It was built by the German occupation forces in the period 1941-1944 along the coasts of France, Channel Islands, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Norway and Denmark. The main goal was to prevent allied landings on the shores of these countries. During this period, a total of 14,000 heavy, concrete bunkers were built. An amount that is impressive by the quantity, cost and involved labor. This portion of the fortifications survived because they were built on land belonging to Prince Charles, Count of Flanders who decided not to destroy them after liberation as a national monument.
For the boys, it was a chance to go on an adventure in tunnels, bunkers, on bridges and over sand dunes. They ran from one yellow arrow to the next, completing the tour in record time. Ben loved the old guns and cannons. Lilly loved experiencing a 150-minute audio tour with three children in 90 minutes and I loved how tired the children were afterward. I'm so glad I'm not a boy. And I'm so glad I'm not a boy in the army during World War II.
Knowing our kids were done sight-seeing for the day, we made our way back to the car.
Unfortunately, I left the lights on when parking the car six hours earlier and as a result, the car battery was dead. Ben went to look for an employee of the parking garage. I asked the next man who walked by if he had jumper cables. He did (really rare in Europe).
Twenty minutes later, we were back in business and on our way to the beach enjoying the lingering pungent smell of our good samaritan. People either smell amazing or terrible here. There's no middle ground.
The German Atlantikwall, was one of the last major defense lines of this century. It was built by the German occupation forces in the period 1941-1944 along the coasts of France, Channel Islands, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Norway and Denmark. The main goal was to prevent allied landings on the shores of these countries. During this period, a total of 14,000 heavy, concrete bunkers were built. An amount that is impressive by the quantity, cost and involved labor. This portion of the fortifications survived because they were built on land belonging to Prince Charles, Count of Flanders who decided not to destroy them after liberation as a national monument.
For the boys, it was a chance to go on an adventure in tunnels, bunkers, on bridges and over sand dunes. They ran from one yellow arrow to the next, completing the tour in record time. Ben loved the old guns and cannons. Lilly loved experiencing a 150-minute audio tour with three children in 90 minutes and I loved how tired the children were afterward. I'm so glad I'm not a boy. And I'm so glad I'm not a boy in the army during World War II.
Day 3: Ghent
We spent the morning walking along and taking photographs on St. Michael's Bridge, touring Gravensteen Castle, visiting the Belfry Belfort Tower of Ghent and taking turns going inside the Cathedral St. Bavo to view the Ghent Altar Piece. We brought bubbles and would blow the bubbles for the kids every time we stopped to look at something. People love to watch our family survive in public.
A food truck festival was underway as we headed back toward the car and we happily ate Belgian waffles, fresh fries (frites) with mayonnaise, and egg rolls as fast as we could while Ingrid and Aksel slept and the rain started to pour.
A food truck festival was underway as we headed back toward the car and we happily ate Belgian waffles, fresh fries (frites) with mayonnaise, and egg rolls as fast as we could while Ingrid and Aksel slept and the rain started to pour.
As we drove away, Ben revealed he had found and purchased Ghent's famous purple nose candy. Lilly and I eagerly ate a nose and announced we wouldn't be having a second. Ben then tried one and said, these taste like circus peanuts! and kept eating.
Lilly and I liked Bruges more than Ghent. Ben liked Ghent more than Bruges. I liked the food better in Bruges. Lilly and Ben liked the food better in Ghent. Basically, we recommend going to both places.
We promised Otto and Aksel a trip to McDonalds if they could survive the morning in Ghent and they were handsomely rewarded with Happy Meals, ice cream cones and all the indoor play they wanted with flemish children.
We bathed and put the kids to bed, and then Lilly and I headed into Ostend to get kebabs, walk along the beach and wander through awkwardly crowded stores. We ended the night by eating a lot of stroopwafels and reveling Belgium Netflix for one last night.
Day 4: Church
Making it to 9:30 a.m. church with a 1.5 hour travel time isn't a problem when everyone (read: Otto & Aksel) wake up at 6 am consistently. Surviving three hours of church when Otto and Aksel wake up at 6 a.m. is another story.
By 8 a.m., the car was packed, the kids were strapped in, iPads were handed out, snacks were being consumed, and we were on the road, driving along canals and fields of Belgian meat cows. It was beautiful.
We pulled into the parking lot of the LDS S.H.A.P.E. (Supreme High Allied Powers of Europe) branch building at 9:26 and we walked in the building. People were so excited we had come and openly wished we would make the two-hour drive from Luxembourg each week. We had an entire (long) bench to ourselves for Sacrament meeting and at the conclusion, Aksel took himself to nursery and Otto asked where his classroom was. Ben, Lilly and I consumed the large bag of peanut m&ms I wisely purchased the night before during Sunday school and then Lilly, Ingrid and I headed to Relief Society with five other women where I unwisely offered to accompany the hymns we sang on the piano.
After church, we spread a blanket out on the grass, unpacked our picnic lunch, changed our clothes and talked with a few members of the branch, swapping travel and adventure stories. As we drove away, I had the following conversation with Otto.
After church, we spread a blanket out on the grass, unpacked our picnic lunch, changed our clothes and talked with a few members of the branch, swapping travel and adventure stories. As we drove away, I had the following conversation with Otto.
O: When am I going to see my friends again?
T: Which friends?
O: My Belgium church friends.
T: I don't know. Did you like going to church here today?
O: There's a talent show on Saturday night at 6 o'clock. Are we going to see them on Saturday?
I love that Otto listened to the announcements in Primary.
Sometimes leaving Luxembourg makes me really mad at Luxembourg. Why does Belgium get better shows on Netflix? Why does an itty bitty branch in the middle of nowhere in Belgium get a big beautiful church building? Why is everything less expensive outside of Luxembourg? Why can products like Vitamin Water and Barbecue sauce make it to Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium, but not make it the additional 15 minutes across the border into Luxembourg?
But leaving Luxembourg also makes me love our home in Luxembourg. No matter how magical the trip was, I'm always ready to come home and I'm always grateful for the life and friends (come back Packer family!) we have in Luxembourg.
Belgium was beautiful. I feel so lucky and blessed to see incredible pieces of art and history, eat fresh waffles, ride a boat along canals teeming with flowers, and watch my family thrive and adapt and enjoy this adventure together.
But leaving Luxembourg also makes me love our home in Luxembourg. No matter how magical the trip was, I'm always ready to come home and I'm always grateful for the life and friends (come back Packer family!) we have in Luxembourg.
Belgium was beautiful. I feel so lucky and blessed to see incredible pieces of art and history, eat fresh waffles, ride a boat along canals teeming with flowers, and watch my family thrive and adapt and enjoy this adventure together.
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